방콕 아리 태국음식점 2곳, 옹통 카오소이와 팻팻카페

방콕 아리 태국음식, 방콕은 태국의 수도, 태국음식이야 당연히 태국 음식. 그러면 그 중간에 아리만 뭔지 알면 되겠죠? 아리는 방콕의 중심인 싸얌에서 북쪽으로 몇 킬로미터 떨어지지 않은 부도심 중 하나입니다. 카페거리로도 유명해요. 고가철도 BTS가 지나가는 구역으로 호텔이 많은 아속, 싸얌에서 편하게 접근할 수 있습니다. 카오산에서는 좀 힘들어요. 아리는 확실히 깔끔한 동네는 아닙니다. 노점도 많고 큰 쇼핑몰도 몇 개 없습니다. 길은 좁고 꼬불꼬불하고 주의깊게 살펴보지 않는다면 눈 앞에 내가 찾는 가게가 있어도 모르고 지나쳐버릴 수도 있어요. 하지만 오히려 그 점이 아리를 재밌게 만들어줍니다.

치앙마이 음식 전문점, 옹통 카오소이

카오소이는 태국 북부, 치앙마이 스타일의 면 요리입니다. 옹통 카오소이는 그런 치앙마이 음식을 주력으로 하는 식당으로 BTS 아리역에서 멀리 떨어지지 않은 곳에 있습니다. 걸어서 3분이면 가요. 아리 태국음식점 중 800개가 넘는 아주 유명한 축에 속하고요. 

아리 태국음식점, 옹통 카오소이는 미슐랭 빕구르망에 2019년부터 3년동안 선정되었습니다.

1층 면적은 넓지 않은데 직원이 참 많이 상주하고 있어요. 아직 많이 가 보진 않았지만 그래도 며칠동안 클래스 있는 식당과 일반 식당을 가르는 구분이 생겼는데요. 전자는 종업원들 방역이 철저해요. 마스크 착용은 기본이고 장갑까지 다 끼고 있습니다. 

옹통 카오소이의 메뉴는 그리 직관적이진 않습니다. 여러가지 테마로 분리되어 있어요. 지금은 이지버디라는 곳와 콜라보한 메뉴를 가장 미는 중이더라고요. 가격 역시 가장 비쌌습니다. 기본 메뉴 카오소이가 89바트 약 3600원부터 시작인데 특별 메뉴는 150바트, 180바트 정도였어요. 

방콕 아리 태국음식, 옹통카오소이

방콕 아리 태국음식점, 옹통 카오소이의 첫번째 메뉴. 이름이 좀 복잡해요.

เส้นข้าวซอยผัดกะเพราลิ้นวัวทอด + ไข่ดาว

멘붕할 거 같은 길이지만 하나하나 뜯어보면 간단합니다. 물론 전 몇몇 단어는 알지만 모르는 게 많아 떠듬떠듬 읽어나갔습니다. 사전을 찾아가면서요. 

เส้น(센, 면)
ข้าวซอย(카오서이, 치앙마이식 면 요리)
ผัด(팟, 볶다)
กะเพรา(까파오, 바질)
ลิ้น(린, 혀)
วัว(왕, 소)
ทอด(텃, 튀김)
ไข่(카이, 계란)
ดาว(다우, 후라이)

센카오서이 팟카파오 린왕텃 + 카이다우.

바질을 넣은 볶은 치앙마이식 면에 소혀튀김과 계란후라이를 곁들인 요리입니다. 참.. 쉽..죠..?

튀긴 에그누들, 바미입니다. 기름에 튀겼다기보단 에어후라이어 같은 열풍으로 건조했다는 표현이 더 적당하겠네요. 그 모양이나 색만 봐도 바삭해보입니다. 맛보다는 식감, 그리고 모양에 비중을 둔 토핑같았어요. 이거 자체만 먹으면 밋밋해 별 감흥이 없지만 아래 숨어있는 면과 먹었을 때 그 대비가 도드라지는거죠. 

소 혀인 걸 음식이름을 통해 알고 있었습니다. 그런데 음식이 나오는 순간 혹시 내가 잘못 이해했나? 하고 눈을 의심했습니다. 우리나라에서 흔히들 먹는 일본식 조리법과 완전 다르게 생겼죠. 소 혀가 두꺼운 건 예전에 사진으로 본 적이 있지만 이렇게 요리로 접하니까 느낌이 다르네요. 여타 태국의 육류 튀김처럼 튀김옷이 없이 그대로 기름에 들어갔다 나왔습니다. 겉면에 살짝 뿌려진 소금과 향신료가 기름의 풍미를 증폭시켜줍니다. 

우설답게 쫄깃하고 부드럽습니다. 지방의 비율이 높아서 살코기를 먹을 때 약간 뻑뻑한 그런 느낌이 전혀 나지 않아요. 

계란과 튀긴 바미와 우설 아래에 이렇게 볶은 면이 숨어있습니다. 바미, 에그누들은 간장의 색이 밴 옅은 고동색인데 팟씨유처럼 향이 진하진 않습니다. 간장보다 더 자기자랑을 하는 건 바질과 고추였어요. 팟까파오, 이름 값 하는 음식입니다. 퀄리티는 굉장했습니다. 179바트, 세금을 조금 포함해 거의 195바트, 8000원 가까이 하는 비싼 면인데 그 값어치, 충분했습니다. 최근 일주일동안 먹은 음식 중 가장 맛있었어요. 약간 매콤합니다. 그런데 많이 매워지려 할 때 우설이나 계란후라이의 기름이 그걸 딱 중화시켜주더라구요. 

매움을 테마로 삼은 깔쌈한 레스토랑, 팻팻카페

스타벅스에 앉아서 여러가지 작업을 하다 보니 어느새 배가 출출해집니다. 포만감이 있어도 역시 면은 면이지요. 걸음을 옮긴 곳은 북쪽으로 한 정거장 떨어진 사판콰이 역. 여기서 조금만 더 가면 그 유명한 짜뚜짝 시장이 나옵니다. 가는 길, 대로변에 몇몇 식당이 가끔 나오긴 하지만 상업구역보다는 오피스구역에 가까웠습니다. 

아리보다 약간 더 흐트러진 동네였어요. 영어 메뉴들이 안보이고 외국인도 거의 돌아다니지 않습니다. 관광객 말고 생활하는 사람들요. 

식당을 찾아 골목으로 쭉쭉 들어갑니다. 여기가 맞나 싶을 정도로 외진 곳입니다. 

찾아온 가게는 팻팻카페. 사실 아리 태국음식점이라 하기에는 거리가 좀 있어요. 아리역에서 15분, 20분 정도 걸었나요? 외관은 마치 식당이 아닌 것 같습니다. 처음에는 무슨 갤러리인 줄 알았어요. 

길다란 복도를 쭉 따라가면 계단이 나옵니다. 테이블이 있는 2층 입구입니다. 1층의 나머지 공간은 주방인데 부시럭거리는 소리가 아주 많이 났어요. 칼로 도마를 내리치는 충격음, 야채가 부러지는 파열음, 육수가가 끓어오르는 보글거리는 소리. 오픈키친이긴 하지만 내부 구경을 힘들게 만들어 놓은 구조라 잘 보이진 않았습니다. 

2층에는 열 개가 조금 넘는 테이블이 있습니다. 아까 옹통카오소이처럼 넓은 식당은 아니에요. 

메뉴판은 두껍습니다. 종류가 굉장히 다양해요. 샐러드도 있고 비빔면도 있고 튀긴 요리도 있고 기본적인 밥 요리도 있고. 물론 팻팻카페라는 이름답게 대부분의 메뉴가 맵습니다. 팻이 맵다는 뜻이에요.  1단계부터 5단계까지 매운 정도를 고를 수 있습니다.

시킨 메뉴는 단 하나, 땀카놈찐뿌덩. ตำขนมจีนปูคอง. 아까 옹통 카오소이처럼 한번 이름을 분해해봅시다.

ตำ(땀, 절구에 찧어 만든 요리, 보통 샐러드)

ขนมจีน(카놈찐, 찐 쌀국수입니다. 다른 달콤한 카놈이나 중국 찐 하고는 관계없어요.)

ปู(뿌, 게)

คอง(덩, 발효, 절인 것)

합치면 절인 게를 넣은 찐 쌀국수 샐러드. 와 쉽다! 

저 해바라기 씨 같은 건 กระธิน(끄라틴)이라고 루키나 루코씨팔라(…..욕 아님)입니다. 미모사과 나무인데 그 씨앗이에요.  풀떼기는 ชะอม(차옴)이라고 역시 미모사의 친척입니다. 둘 다 콩과의 식물인데 색이 싱그러운 연두색이라 자기 주장이 강할 것 같았지만 의외로 큰 존재감이 없었습니다. 그것보다는 일단 피시소스의 존재감이 정말정말 강했어요. 음식이 아주 짜고 맵습니다. 매운 단계를 중간으로 했는데도요. 포스팅의 키워드를 방콕 아리 맛집 이라고 썼지만 제 입맛에는 옹통 카오소이가 더 좋았습니다. 팻팻 카페는 조금 더 다른 메뉴를 먹어봐야 제대로 평가할 수 있을 것 같아요. 가격은 85바트, 3400원입니다. 

이거 말고 마지막에 옥수수를 넣은 코코넛밀크 아이스크림이 있는데 그걸 먹어볼 걸 그랬어요. 지금 다시 생각나네요. 

아리 태국음식점 팻팻카페 구글맵에서 보기

길거리 로띠

팻팻카페 바로 앞에 로띠 카트가 있었습니다. 일반 로띠 가격은 20바트 800원. 사실 땀카놈찐 하나 먹고 배가 찰 리가 없지요. 매운거 먹기 부담스러웠을 뿐.  ‘아오안능로띠캅!’ 을 외칩니다. 

동그랗게 만들어놓은 로띠 반죽들. 호떡반죽처럼 생겼습니다. 사실 큰 틀에서 보면 비슷하죠. 

쫙쫙, 얇고 넓게 펴줍니다. 

계란을 한 개 탁 깐 다음 반죽 위에 골고루 바릅니다.  

마가린에 튀겨지듯 구워지는 로띠. 짙은 갈색으로 부풀어오른 부분이 사진으로 보니까 조금 그로테스크하네요. 좋게 말하면 크레이터가 잔뜩 생긴 외계 행성 표면 같고, 나쁘게 말하면 입맛이 뚝 떨어지니까 하지 않겠습니다. 향이 음식에 차지하는 부분이 이렇게나 커요. 실제로 로띠 만드는 걸 눈 앞에서 보고 있으면 고소한 반죽 구워지는 냄새가 진동하니까마냥 맛있게만 보이거든요. 입에 침이 뚝뚝 흐르죠. 

연유와 설탕을 팍팍. 디저트는 달아야 합니다. 방금 단 맛이라고는 전혀 없는 땀카놈찐을 먹고 왔기 때문에 제 몸이 당분을 간절히 바라고 있었습니다. 

플레인 로띠입니다. 바나나도, 초콜렛도 없어요. 하지만 밀가루와 당분, 그리고 기름의 조합은 완벽했습니다. 단점은 길에서 먹을 때 손이 찐득찐득하게 변해 물티슈가 필요하다는 점? 전 그런 걸 챙겨다닐만큼 꼼꼼한 사람이 아니라 세븐일레븐 가서 39바트 1600원 정도에 샀지만요. 

같이 볼만한 아티클

방콕 아리 태국음식점들  포스팅은 여기까지입니다. 옹통 카오소이와 팻팻카페 두 곳, 그리고 길거리 로띠였어요. 두 식당 모두 재방문 의사가 있습니다. 다시 가게 되면 다른 메뉴를 먹고 싶네요. 

방콕의 5성급 호텔 리스트

여러 태국 여행지들을 중부, 남부, 북부, 북동부 4지역별로 정리해봅시다

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